Colbert London

Largest restaurant on Sloane Square – Colbert

Colbert, not to be confused by the American comedian and writer of the same nomenclature, was opened to replace the Oriel restaurant in October 2012. Colbert the restaurant was created by Jeremy King and Chris Corbin after the Earl of Cadogan, the landlord, was dissatisfied with his meal at the Oriel and chose not to renew its lease.

Two things we don’t see on a French Brasserie or Bistro menu in London are a well balanced soupe à l’oignon or French Onion soup and a menu that includes Pastis, let alone a selection of it to choose from.

These have never been removed nor changed from the menu since I have been coming here for over 6 years.

French Onion Soup and Ricard at Colbert, Chelsea

As a morose Goldilocks warned with her; too hot, too cold and just right porridge tasting, we must take heed as French onion soup lovers, to appreciate when the broth is present and not gravy like. The black pepper swirls across the melted compté and finally the sweet onion. If it’s not in this order of mouthful; pepper, fat, salt and sweetness, while still nearly burning my tongue to the point that I cannot put my spoon down – I don’t what to know it. Or order it. ever again.

Art deco interiors at the French Brassie Colbert on Sloane Square

The clacking of heel or muffled rubber sole landing on mosaic tiles, is reminiscent of your Victorian town house entrance, or British boarding school corridor. The overhanging art deco spanning the bar, restaurant, splendid bathroom interiors, come in and out of focus like clouds of asbinthe for artists and pastis for poets in 17th Century Saint Germain.

Seasonal vegetarian dish at Colbert London

If you love a globe artichoke steamed with vinaigrette dressing it is a treat heard in so much as each you’ll love it hear when it’s on the menu (it’s off now). It’s the most expensive you can order in London but they’ll make sure you decide at what temperature it’s served to you. It’s trimmed to perfection but I’d still order it alone or with a close friend.

Individual oysters are sourced from Poole and Jersey. There is no more information on their size or taste so you have to spend the £5.95 to find out. I’ve done it for you (it was £4.95 previously) and what can I say?

Huîtres

I like my oysters raw and in any size. Nutty or even better, creamy with a gentle salinity. These are really good. I used to think the creamy part was the belly of the oyster. Turns out it’s the reproductive organs. I’ve a lot to learn about oysters.

Overall

As long as the Cadogan family remain the landlord or Colbert exists, I’ll come back when I can for what I pay a reduced, if not fraction of the price for in France (not necessarily Paris). The key to Colbert is consistency. I’ve never faulted a single dish ordered, yet, seen a change in standard nor a reason to complain. It’s fun, comfortable, with great service added on. Qu’est-ce que ne pas aimer?

Additional costs and considerations

The menu changes slightly with the season, particularly vegetarian items. A 175 ml pour of wine starts from £10.75 and it’s worth checking the draught pours of beer and cider at the bar where you can also order some bites and chat with the friendly bar staff about drinks. Cover Charge is £2.50 at Lunch and Dinner in the Dining Rooms and a 15% service charge will be added to your bill. The dessert menu is lengthy for a brasserie and note-worthy if you have a sweet tooth. They don’t wow but they end the meal nicely if that’s your kind of thing.

Overall ratings for Colbert Chelsea

Taste: 7/10

Service: 7.4/10

Value for money: 6.5/10

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